Tag Archives: gr5

Day 25 : Samoens – Lac de Salanfe 5th July 2013

Going up on the road 6:50am towards Col de Coux today

Bivouac last night nearby Pied du Cret.

3 possibilities from there to reach cabane Susanfe.

One is by Refuge du Folly, Col des chambres 2338m,refuge de la Vogealle and Tete des Ottans to reach cabane Susanfe CH Valais.
Second way following GRP by refuge Bostan. (via alpina GPX file following this way)

Will follow via alpina by Chavonnes, Col & refuge de la Golese and Col de Coux

Parking du Cret 7:15am 997m.Via Alpina goes by Col de la Golese (left by forest trail).Can follow road and GRP to reach refuge du Bostan

7:45am Chavonnes 1245m Col de la Golese marked 1h15

8:45am 1660m Col de la Golese alpage. Refuge de Bostan by GRP marked 40mins (up right). Col de Coux marked 2h20 (up left)

Little historical information posted by refuge de la Golese owner.

Col de la Golese is the passing way between Vallee d’Aulps (Morzine) & vallee du Giffre (Samoens).
Nearby Col de Coux to Swiss Valais. Thoses passes used to be main communications & exchange way in between thoses 3 vallees

9:10am 1525m BonneValette intersection. Refuge chardonniere marked 20mins.Morzine marked 2h30.Col de Coux marked 2h

9:30am 1420m Plan des Heures intersection. Morzine marked 2h20 dowm left. Straight up Col de Coux marked 1h40.Refuge des Barmes marked 3h

9:40am 1500m Torrent des chardonnieres.Fresh water available here.Col de Coux marked 1h25.Refuge de Barme 2h40

10:15am 1800m L’epingli.nice panoramic view Aulps vallee (morzine)

10:30am Col de Coux 1920m. Refuge de Barmes marked 1h50

Few mountain bikers at Col de Coux

10:45am leaving haute savoie & france to enter Swiss Valais. Champery marked 2h10

Great view on Dents Blanches massif. Going down by the sounds of singing birds and Swiss cow bells through light forest

12:05am Barmes/Barmaz 1472m

1:25pm leaving Barmes. Refuge Susanfe marked 3h20

Cantine de Barmaz lunch break 26CHF for big hiker salad + beer

Going up then down to Bonavau.Impressive view on the way. Reached Bonavau 2:40pm 1540m

It goes up very steeply the.little bit of rock climbing necessary (chains to help)

3:30pm Pas D’encel 1798m. Cabane de Susanfe marked 1h

4:40pm 2089m Cabane Susanfe. Fabienne refuge keeper, very nice & welcoming. Been here for 6 years.Gave me advice about after Col Susanfe to follow still winter trail on the right side.

There is a sherperd in this alpage taking care of sheeps. He is young and have his wife and kid up in the alpage. Did not have chance to talk to him (walking faster than me and busy working also)

6:05pm 2494m Col de Susanfe. View on the Salanfe lake.
Refuge de Salanfe marked 1h30

After about 45mins of going down steeply in the snow.cross and follow water stream on flat ground.

7:05pm catched up summer trail

7:30pm approaching refuge de Salanfe.A young girl working at the refuge is there contemplating the mountains. She told me that the chapel that we can see from the distance its open. Think i just find where i am going to end up yet another fantastic day on the via alpina.

Today is in the top 3 of my favorite day since Monaco. Feel like just entered another world here in Swiss Valais…

7:50pm Salanfe 1935m.Van d’en Haut marked 1h10

Distance covered : 33,3km
Walking time : 8h40
Resting time : 4h25
Weather : warm & sunny
Date : Friday 5th July 2013
Altitude : 1950m

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Last night bivouac Chalet/warehouse

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Alpage near col de le Golese

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Panorama at Col de Coux Haute Savoie Vallee d’Aulps side

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Panorama Valais side Col de Coux

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Swiss Valais awesome panorama

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Brames & Dents du Midi massif

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Valais style chalet

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Free goat

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Near Pas D’encel

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On the way to cabane de Susanfe

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Col de Susanfe

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Col de susanfe right in front

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Panoramic view lac de salanfe

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Day 24 : Refuge Moede Anterne – Samoens 4th July 2013

Light rain still this morning. Waiting for a couple of spanish hikers who got lost & scared yesterday and want to join me to get to Samoens safely on the GR5.

Leaving 8:30am Refuge Moede Anterne.Sixt marked 3h45

Col d’Anterne 2257m 9:10am. weather got better.
Sixt marked 3h.Manuel & Solle also walking the via alpina to Feldkrich (started from Les Houches this year.doing piece of the via alpina every year).Might see them again…

9:50am around Anterne lake, the rain and fog came back.Decide to wait for Manuel & Solle who do not have the GPX file.

11am refuge Alfred Wills fog still but no more snow and GR markers and path easy to follow. Leaving fellow via alpinists behind.

12am 1450m reached Pleureuse et Sauffaz. Intersection GR96 & GR5.
Lignon marked down 30mins

Awesome waterfalls shortly after : Cascades de la Sauffaz de la pleureuse de sales

12:15am Le Lignon 1180m.Samoens marked 3h. Sixt Fer a cheval marked 1h30

1:05pm leaving Le lignon after lunch break.Rain stopped, sunshine is back.

1:30pm 960m Cascade du Rouget waterfall

2:20pm Pont des Nants 767m. Samoens marked 1h40

Going up little bit in the woods (+100m) then down steeply through “old gorges” (canyon like)

3pm 760m Chapelle Notre Dame des Graces marked 5min off the forestry road walking on now.

3:10pm Videotaped rafting going down water stream le Giffre

3:35pm Passerelle des Bechi 702m.Right marked Samoens centre 15mins. Left Samoens Lacs aux dames 15mins.

Leaving touristic Samoens after checking out the free alpine botanical garden 5:50pm

Distance covered : 28,1km
Walking time : 6h30
Resting time : 3h15
Date : thursday 4th july 2013
Altitude : 718m
Weather : light rain and fog in the morning, sunshine in the afternoon

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Refuge moede anterne 2000m

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On the way up to Col d’ anterne

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Lac d’anterne

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Lots of mud on the way down in between refuge Alfred Wills & Lignon

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Cascade du rouget

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Chapel in Samoens alpine garden

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Huge piece of mountain that falled down in 2005

Day 23 : Les Montets – Refuge Moede Anterne 3rd July 2013

6am the rain stopped. Getting out of the tent and moving to the dry place of the camping (sanitary block)

8am very cloudy and raining quite a lot with cold wind.

Start walking 8:15am

9am 1461m Col des Montets. Reserve naturelle des Aiguilles rouges opens at 9:30am…

10am rain stopped.Videotaped 2 Bouquetins appearing suddendly 20m in front of me.Nice surprise

10:45am 2105m intersection.Lac blanc marked 45mins up.
Chalets des Cheserys marked 15mins.La Flegere marked 1h05.Argentiere marked 2h going down straight

11:50am La Flegere 1867m
Called in Refuge Moede Anterne to see if a bed will be available before deciding what was next…
Refuge owner on the phone recommand me to not come because of the fog..she did not know i had equipement…

Col de Brevents can be tricky if bad weather, navigation is not an option there

12:20am Charlanon 1812m.Brevent marked 2h45.Chamonix down 1h30

13:50pm Col de Brevent 2367m. Rain & quite heavy fog (visibility 10m).Going down in laces.lots of snow left on this side. Fog and light rain. GPS navigation my best friend here. 50m visibility on the way down

3:05pm Pont d’Arleve 1610m low point. Few water streams to cross on the way down and also up

4:15pm 1993m arrived refuge Moede Anterne.Started heavy rain. Saw frog like on the snow before arriving…

Walking time : 7h
Resting time : 1h10
Distance covered: 26,9km
Altitude : 1960m
Date : wednesday 3rd July 2013

Old woman owner at refuge Moede Anterne very strict with her guests 🙂

16euros for a bed..must pay 2 extras euros for shower
Half board is 45euros

8euros for spaghetti served at 6:30pm

The old woman owner son is nice.They have 2 staff to help out and serve the 16 hikers staying here tonight.

Now back on GR5, left TMB.Other hiking around is Tour des Fiz.

Quite a hard day today..not much rest because of the rain coming in and out all day…not much to look around except navigation because of fog and clouds.

Today Col de Brevents very easy to get lost in case of bad weather if no equipement (GPS navigation)

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Campfire Les montets

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On the way to Flegère

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Great view of the glacier on the opposite side : Chamonix valley

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Les montets/Vallorcine down

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Cool mountain frog

Day 10 : Ceillac – Mont Dauphin 20th June 2013

Stayed at the gite “Les Baladins” last night. 17,5euros for a clean dorm bed, kitchen, wifi and nice outdoor…surely great dinner is served there too (did not try)

Ceillac is a very nice Queyras style village. Little bit touristy (lots of shops for such a small place…)

Last night in the dorm, shared the room with a 71 years old man hiking GR5 southbound.

I asked him : “What is your secret to stay so fit sir ?”

He said : ” I am walking 20-30km everyday on flat ground. I live in Toulouse. I am on my way to finish my 5th GR20 and i think it is the last one”

GR20 is in Corsica …and he was doing GR5 before and he was going to go Col de Girardin (loaded with snow still on the final approach) and with bad weather condition.

Did not have time to talk more to him. He went to bed around 8:30pm

When i woke up 5:50am this morning. He was already gone…without a noise. Going for Col de Girardin with the snow and uncertain weather condition….What a brave man he is !

Little bit of showers, wind and sun came in different orders today. Must have been very hard and cold today at Col de Girardin…

The Via Alpina separates from GR5 shortly after Ceillac. Started walking at about 7:15am

It goes through laces in woods to Col de Bramousse first 2251m. Reached there at 8:30am.

Descent to Les Bramousses in the woods. Get nice photo opportunities of Queyras style house/farm.

Reached the road at 1200m to start a steep way up following rad laces then very steep laces in the woods.

The climb up to reach Refuge de Furfande is quite intense and steep (i like it)

Reached Refuge de Furfande 2299m at 12:15am.

Laure the owner, little bit rough woman but she gave me information about what way i could take in the next couple of days.

Her employee Rosa from Italia is way more talkative and easy going. They make a good team i think : like sweet and sour 🙂

Ate the Omelette du randonneur 9euros + 2euros for 1/4 red wine

Left refuge de Furfande around 1:30pm.

On the way very scenic/photographic Granges de Furfande

And on the way to Col Garniet spot a group of 15-20 Mouflons/Muflones (don t know english word for this animal)

Videotaped them..just great…

Reached Col Garnier 2279m at 2:20pm

The via alpina follows GR541 now and it goes down in woods steeply in the direction if Mont Dauphin.

Nice view of the Gorges du Guil. Also called Gorges du Queyras.
Here 3 rivers joins : Guil, Chagne and Durance

Mont Dauphin is a Fort build by Vauban..quite interesting

Staying at gite le glacier bleu. Olivier & Laure are just very nice and helped me out with some grocery because there is nothing here…

Great value for money. 16,5euros for a private room with shower

Arrive Glacier bleu gite at 6:10pm.
Quite a long day today

Walking time : 8h30
Resting time : 2h25
Distance covered : 36.9km
Altitude : 1076m

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Arriving to Ceillac Queyras regional park

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Old style house in Ceillac

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Washing machine : mountain style

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Church/Chapel in Ceillac

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Col des Bramousses

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Camino de santiago meets via alpina and GR58

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Granges de Furfande

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Col Garnier just ahead

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View from Col Granier

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On the way down to Mont Dauphin

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Mont Dauphin

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Day 9 : Colle Del Maurin – Ceillac 19th June 2013

Need to finish yesterday Day 8 because the afternoon after lunch break in Italy at Campo Base Chiappera was quite amazing…

Started hiking happy and full from the delicious food served at Campo Base.

Leaving at about 2:45pm sunny at the beginning then little showers and cloudy weather came. Temperature dropped quickly.

Reached Colle del Maurin/Col de Mary 2641m at 5:20pm

Little bit of snow but easy access.
From there the Via Alpina is going down to Maljasset. I checked the IGN map and wanted to checked out the bivouac Marinet near Marinet lakes. I went up a little more to reach Col de Marinet 2784m. Only snow from Colle del Maurin

Reached Col de Marinet at 6:10pm

Really great view from there. Wished again i had a snowboard with me because the way down to Marinet lakes was just nice and smooth. Not too steep.just perfect to ride it

I enjoyed going down in the snow quite quickly and smoothly.

Reached the bivouac Marinet shelter around 7pm…1m depth of snow is surronding the stone made shelter…inside there is ice and snow…the night is going to be rough but i had a great day and it is just fantastic here at 2527m.

At about 8:30pm temperature inside the shelter was already below 10C

Distance walked day 8 : 27.2km
Walking time : 7h50
Resting time : 3h40

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Col de Mary/Colle del Maurin just ahead in front

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Colle del Maurin

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View from col de mary/colle del maurin

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View from col de Marinet (off the via alpina)

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Going down towards bivouac Marinet

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Bivouac Marinet/shelter

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Dumpster/garbages near Bivouac Marinet…some people don’t like the mountain unfortunately (First time i see this in France)

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That’s it for day 8…another great day on the via alpina

Day 9 : Bivouac Marinet – Ceillac

The night in the shelter was rough but it was great. At 6am temperature is about 5C inside the hut.

Little bit cloudy but fine weather.

Going down to Maljasset

2 streams of water to cross on the way down. Meet 2 FR girls going up to Colle Del Maurin/Col de Mary

Arrive Maljasset 8:30am. It’s warm now here. Shortly after starting to go up for col de Girardin. Saw a deer less than 100m ahead (videotaped it)

The way up from Maljasset is very steep until it connects with GR5.

Windy on the way up. Final approach to col de Girardin very steep to avoid remaining snow.

Getting cold and windy at col de Girardin 2674m at 10:30am

Going down quickly in the snow..nice and soft.

Chapelle St Anne and first lake 2415m at 11:10am

Meet Marceau first guy i bumped into going southbound GR5 from Leman lake. He had snow shoes and made few detour in upcoming (for me) Beaufortain area due to heavy snow on flat ground.

Going down steeply from second lake Miroir to reach Melezet at 1pm 1745m

Having lunch great restaurant La Cascade. They are serving local food japanese style (many small portion but many different one)

16euros with a great view on very long cascade just in front of the terrace.

Here very near to Ceillac. Ski resort…seems to have entered Queyras now

It is only 3pm but i am going to take it easy and stays Ceillac which should be 30mins away.

Need to study the route to go to Briancon by GR5. Via Alpina is going to Guillestre, Vallouise and Monetier les bains.Went there last year and want to checked out unwalked areas/town/village

The upcoming route will be clear of major difficulties/passes and it should be easy for the next few days so will probably take it easy, enjoy and prepare the upcoming…

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On the way down from Bivouac Martinet to catch up via alpina

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Maljasset church

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View on Maljasset on the way to Col de Girardin

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Col de Girardin

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View from col de Girardin

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Lake Ste Anne

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Day 8 : Larche – Colle Del Maurin 18th June 2013

Slept well in the tent. Very quiet.no need ear plugs here.

Woke up 6:30am. Started ascent to Col de Sautron at 7:30am.

Is the grass greener in Italy ? Let ‘s go and checked it out.

Shortly after leaving Larche the Via Alpina leaves the GR5.

During WW2 1940 this place has been defended and fought for.

Torrent des rouchouses is flowing from Col de Sautron and nearby Col des Monges.

The plateau nearby the torrent des rouchouses is really green and peaceful now.

Reached Colle del Sautron 2687m at 10am. Little bit of snow both sides, few neves to cross or go around.

Stop for breakfast & drying tent on the way down to newly built Bivacco Danilo Sartore (great location)

It was open when i passed by it.

The way down to Chiappera goes by many laces. This side is full of stones & rocks…still beautiful & imposing surrondings peaks.

Rifugio campo base phone number changed +39 334 841 604

Arrived Chiappera 1660m at about 12:30am

Stopped for lunch at Rifugio Campo Base. Really nice place.

Daniela speaks French and cooked one of the best meal i had so far.
The quality/price ratio had really increased here in ITALY compared to Alpes Martimes where i have been disappointed by the value for money (lowest i have seen since ages) about food and accomodation

Rifugio campo base surely makes a great spot to stay overnight but i want to pass Colle del Maurin and reached that lake after the pass to camp overnight.

That is why i am doing my homework a little early today (half day had passed only) but i know no wifi will be available up there..Took loads of good pictures already..take a look & enjoy 🙂

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View of Larche village

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Bivacco danilo sartore

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Gelato & fruit by Campo Base Rifugio

Day 7 : St Dalmas Le Selvage – Larche 17th June 2013

Sleeped well last night. Paid 18euros for the bed and 15euros for dinner at Philippe Issautier gite in St Dalmas Le Selvage.

Woke up 5:30am and started walking after breakfast before 6:30am.

Going up to Col de la Colombiere 2244m. Got there at 8am. Snow left overs little bit.

Way down to hameau de Bousieyas 1887m and cross la route de la Bonette which can get you to 2802m (highest road in europe)

La route de la Bonette has just been opened last friday. It is a cyclist, bike rider and tourist heaven.

There was one stream of water to cross before Bousieyas.

From Bousieyas it is going up in a very nice 360 degree surrounding panorama

Reached Col des Fourches 2261m at about 9:50am

Awesome view from there really and like 5minutes walk from the road. Can make a great camp ground there.

It then goes down in Marmottes heaven (lots of them in that area) to grange de Salse Morene 2098m. There is a shelter there and it looked open and unoccupied (there might be a sheep keeper in season) it really look like a perfect house for a night but i got there at 10:10am.

The way up to Pas de la Cavale is very steep on the final approach. One long Neve to cross and one tough 10-20m spot to cross and that was it : Pas de la Cacale 2681m 12:00am lunch time.

Cross 4 young hikers going southbound to La vallee des merveilles with snow shoes. Exchanged informations about what was coming next for me (col girardin and the way to Briancon through Chateau de Queyras) and them (col de crousette)

The way down from Pas De La Cavale was all covered with still a lot of snow. It is not steep down and even flat to the lakes. The snow was hard underneath still.

Walked less than an hour in the snow to reach the second lake on the way down : lac de Lauzanier

Took a nap there and rested around 2:45pm.
Walked down the rest which gets almost flat alongside the stream of water called Ubayette.

It entered a new region now : Alpes de Haute provence.
Leaving Alpes Maritimes

Now it is Ubaye county. Reach Larche (nordic ski resort) at about 5:30pm

Will stay for the night at the camping ground les Marmottes who opened today.
7.5euros for hot shower,water & toilet with no tissues. 1euros for wifi. They also sale food there.

Walking time : 8h
Resting time : 3h
Distance walked : 32km
Altitude in Larche : 1688m

Weather was nice and sunny in the morning with a nice breeze of wind which was great.

On the other side and going down from le Pas de la Cavale.no more breeze..got hot in that valley but it is ok because fresh melted snow is coming down from everywhere

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St dalmas le selvage village

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Col de colombiere 2244m

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On the way down to Bousieyas

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On the way up to Col des Fourches

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View at Col des Fourches 2261m

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On the way up to Pas de la Cavale

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Grange de salse morene 2098m

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View from Pas de la Cavale 2681m

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View on lac du Lauzanier 2281m

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On the way down to Larche

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Larche first house when coming down

Day 6 : Roya – St Dalmas le Selvage 16th June 2013

Roya nice little village. Actual  population : 6 inhabitants

Woke up 6:30am and started hiking 7am.

Reached Col du Blainon (marked 2014m. 1984m on GPS device) at 8:30am

Nice and sunny, little breeze blowing. Perfect for breakfast & drying tent.

Going down through woods to plateau d’Auron at about 9:20am.

Left Auron ski resort at 12am.Free wifi is available at Tourist office.

It then goes down to St etienne de Tinee.Arrived there 1:30pm. Had lunch and a piece of red meat for 12.90euros @ bar/restaurant de la poste (new owner who dont know how to make business).

Leaving this nice cute village at about 2:45pm and shortly after on the way up saw a cat. Stopped for a picture and started one way conversation with him…

An old man named Auguste appeared from the shades and started talking to me.

He told me that the coming Col d’Anette was a very good camping spot with water & woods (meleze) for fire.

When i got at Col d’Anelle 1753m 4:30pm. It is a very good spot for camping and the cool extra : 2 bathtubs of fresh water to deep into.

Called Gite owner in St dalmas le Selvage to check if there was a bed and dinner available for me.

Left Col d’Anelle 5:15pm moving slowly down to reach St Dalmas Le Selvage to end up that day on the Via Alpina (still following GR5)

Great view on the Mercantour national park when coming down from Col d’Anelle

St Dalmas le Selvage is a charming alpine village with a beautiful church (lots of great photography can be made there)

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House in Roya

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On the way up to Col de Blainon

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View of plateau d’Auron ski resort

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St etienne de tinee church

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Auguste and one of his cat

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View of st etienne de tinee on the way up to Col d’Anelle

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On the way down to st dalmas le selvage.view of the Mercantour national park

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Church st dalmas le selvage

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House in st dalmas le selvage

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Day 4 : St Martin Vesubie – Roure 14th June 2013

The champouns gite owner in St Martin Vésubie introduces her 2 lamas to me (videotaped it) this morning before leaving “la suisse nicoise” (st martin vesubie).

Took nice pictures with the lamas.

Start walking 8am and took wrong trail…went up very steeply & down. Was back on the road and started 9am on the right way.

Taking the laces up in the pine forest on the trail to Le benitier and vallon du vernet.

The via alpina is going up on the other side, it was shorter for me to take that way and catch up the via alpina at the col st martin (la colmiane)

La colmiane ski resort 1500m at the col st martin is the point of entrance to la vallee de Tinee…leaving la vallee de la vesubie from there.

10:20am and going down to St dalmas. Arrive st dalmas valdeblore 11:15am.

Meet young mom strolling her new born and old lady taking care of the musee du terroir (too long story to detail it now)

Bumped into 2 hikers going southbound on the GR5. Got informations about what is coming next.

La valle de tinee as much more flora than the vallee de la vesubie i could notice.

Also much more religious signs in this vallee. Lots of crosses and chapels on the way down through la bolline, rimplas and to arrive at about 500m in St sauveur de tinee 4:15pm

Called the town hall in Roure village. I can go up there at stay in the gite tonight.

Leaving st sauveur 4:45pm and arrive Roure around 6pm at about 1100m.

Alone in the gite but the 2 ladies (mother and daughter) leaving next door will turned out to be really nice and talkative.

Marcelle and Yann will give me washing powder for laundry…yes there is a washing machine here…how cool is that?

Anyway Marcelle and Yann told me a lot of things..borrowed me IGN maps..gave me tomato, tuna and wine too.

Thoses 2 women must have rescued a lot of hikers here. There is no shops around…40 persons lives in Roure during the year…some people come for holidays winter or summer only.

Ok have to go…very challenging day tomorrow and the next few days also…looking forward for it

Today was sunny but not too hot…nice cool wind in this vallee de la tinee

Walking time : 7h10
Distance covered : 26km

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Lama chilling in st martin vesubie

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6years old lama female also resting

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View on st martin vesubie when i took wrong trail

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Mercantour national park mountain view on the way up to la colmiane (col st martin)

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Vallee de la tinee first view

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St dalmas valdeblore church

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Alpine house vallee de la tinee style…st dalmas valdeblore GR5

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Vallee de la tinee

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Pissaladiere local speciality (oignon and anchovie pie)

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Nice alpine house vallee de la tinee. La bolline

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Going down to st sauveur after rimplas village

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How amazing is that?

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Religious item vallee de la tinee must have very religious past

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View of st sauveur de tinee

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Cool cat from st sauveur de tinee

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St sauveur de tinee church (feel like being in spain)

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Outside st sauveur de tinee church

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St sauveur de tinee bad guys hanging out 😉

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View of la vallee de tinee on the way up to Roure

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Enjoy

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Roure village

 

French Alps crossing trails maps

Want to hike and cross the French Alps ?

Here below an overall map of 3 different trail that can be hiked to get a “compostella like” diploma using La Carte du Passeur de Cols

The overall trail maps below shows 3 of numerous trails (GTA-GR5, Via Alpina Red Trail, Via Alpina Blue) that can be followed to go from The Leman lake to the Mediteranean sea in either direction. This can help to decide a pre-itinerary for crossing the French Alps.

CartesAlpes-FR1 CartesAlpes-FR2

The start/end can be done either in Nice, Monaco or Menton. Nice has international airport, a major train station and a youth Hostel. Monaco, and Menton are easily reachable by train from Nice.
From Thonon les Bains & St Gindolph you can reach by boat Lausanne or Geneva by train (about 2hours from St Gingolph)