Category Archives: Via Alpina Day by Day

Day by day Via Alpina descriptions

Day by day ultra detailed and accurate description of this 76 days via alpina journey from Monaco to Trieste.

Daily pictures with location, walking statistics, location of bivouacs, stories of via alpina locals meet on the way, etc…

Day 76 : Prosecco – Muggia/Trieste 25th August 2013

Started this via alpina last day 7:20am.Rain came shortly after setting off last bivouac in the forest. Deer came close last night and saw 3 huge wild boars this morning.

Started the day with a quick laundry by the water spot

9:30am End of the napoleon road, entering Villa Opicina.Rifugio premuda marked 6h. Camping Obelisco right on the via alpina.CAI trail #1

10am 460m Monte Belvedere.Panorama over Trieste and Muggia

11:50am entered Bazzoni wood.

12:35am taking shortcut by steep way down on trail #49a.Via Alpina goes around Val Rosandra, feeling too tired to do extra kms today

1:20pm Rifugio Premuda

3:10pm leaving rifugio Mario Premuda, last rifugio on the via alpina…

5:20pm Muggia centro historico.Via alpina end up here but the adventure never stops…

Distance ; 30,5km

Walking : 6h45

Resting : 3h20

Weather : little rain in the morning, cloudy then sunny

Date ; Sunday 25th August 2013

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Panorama on Trieste

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Another Trieste panorama

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Trieste

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Val Rosandra

Muggia Church

Muggia Church

Day 75 : San Martino del Carso – Prosecco 24th August 2013

Leaving 7:45am friendly host Lucia and San Martino del Carso.
Jamiano marked 4h on trail #72

9:20am Lago di Doberdo

10:10am Jamiano.Restaurant and also B&B called villa al bosco by the main road

From Jamiano to Medeazza followed trail #3

11:10am Medeazza stopped for lunch to eat local ham called prosciutto crudo and local Teran  vino rosso.

12am leaving Medeazza on trail 3a.Sea 500m away

1:40pm Sea side trail near Duino

2:30pm Out of Sistiana..

After quick refreshing bath in the salty water reached Santa Croce 5pm 230m, now following last CAI sentiero #1

5:30pm 300m high point view on Trieste and Muggia

7:25pm just in time before the Prosecco town grocery store closing time.
Walking back to monasterio di san cipriano to look for accomodation…

Huge fence,no bell,impossible to get in…will go for a last pitch on the via alpina yellow trail in the nearby forest

Distance : 34,1km
Walking : 7h35
Resting : 4h20
Altitude : 260m
Weather : hot & sunny
Date : Saturday 24th August 2013

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Lago di Doberdo

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Prosciutto crudo

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Sea view near Duino castle

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Sistiana

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Going vertical on Duino’s cliff

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Trail #1 last or first via alpina yellow trail

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Day 74 : Dobrovo – San Martino del Carso 23rd August 2013

Leaving Dobrovo 7:15am.Will try to find a way through Goriska Brda region vineyards to catch up via alpina

7:40am saw a beautiful fox in the vineyard

8:10am 180m Kozana

9am 230m Gorenje Cerovo

10:30am 240m Back in Italia and on the via alpina in Sovenza – San Floriano del Collio

11:45am 80m Crossing Fiume Isonzo on bridge, entering Gorizia town

2:45pm Out of ugly Gorizia town the worst possible way…going through industrial zone (now in the process of making cycling/walking path).Don’t know where the trails are if they are some…

3:15pm Savogna d’isonzo

3:30pm Rubbia.San Martino del Carso marked 2h on trail #73

Had to pass over a locked 1,5m high fence on this sentiero that goes around a vineyard.

4:20pm many trails intersection.Right/West trail smic010d

Staying right/west,leaving trail smic014z going left

Reached 250m

5pm San Martino del Carso. Lucia & Dorothea 3years old welcomed me in the house, via vicenza 9 as read in the via alpina roadbook.
Warm indoor couch available with clean sheets and pillow, hot shower and a great encounter with artist Lucia

Distance : 31,5km
Walking : 6h50
Resting : 2h45
Weather : hot & sunny
Date : Friday 23rd August 2013

Went to assist 7pm messa.One woman came talking to me while sitted..asked me if the messa was on because a sign said there was no messa today….

No mass today, the priest came and told me and the woman to go home…allright can still stay inside chilling

Lucia told me that the priest is 92years old and still drive a car in the neighborhood…

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Sunset other Dobrovo – Slovenia

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Goriska Brda countryside

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Goriska Brda vineyards

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Gorizia

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Gorizia via alpina way marker

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Rubbia

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San Martino del Carso church

Day 73 : Varth – Dobrovo 22nd August 2013

Leaving the hunters house 6:45am

7:25am 700m Locked chapel.Castelmonte marked 2h35 on trail #747

8:15am 660m near locked Chiesa di San Nicolo. Another opened hunters house.fireplace,table,chairs and couches but untaken care of…Door was opened wide and lots of garbages inside.

9:50am 618m Sanctuario di Madonna di Monte/Castelmonte

No short pant or t shirt inside the sanctuario, needed to put the rain gear on to get it 🙂

10am mass in progress.Beautiful sanctuario.
In the crypt many drawings/paintings representing car accidents…people who escaped accidents pay tribute to madonna di monte

10:50am leaving Castelmonte on trail #748.Via alpina roadbook says 15km to Gorizia while GPS and hikers comments suggests 48km (straight..probably more following via alpina trail)

Finally getting out forest,vineyards appears..

1:30pm 135m The grapes in the vineyard near Albana are ready to be eaten.Stopping by for a quick grape feast

1:50pm leaving Albana, entering provincia di Gorizia

2pm decide to get off the via alpina yellow trail and get on the slovenian side for the night…should also be shorter to reach Gorizia…feeling that it goes backward or often in the wrong direction when following via alpina trail #748 since Castelmonte.

Get in Slovenia around 4pm…moving along the vineyards and cute villages on top of the hills.

Crashed in Dobrovo town..arrived there around 6pm…will pitch in the nearby small forest tonight

Today was a hard day…finally got off the forest and getting some visibility..the via alpina roadbook information for this stage (gorizia-castelmonte) is incorrect and approximative..

Luckily the expected bad weather is delayed to sunday..was predicted for tomorrow…should be Trieste then

Distance : 36,7km
Walking : 8h30
Resting : 3h20
Altitude : 140m
Date : Thursday 22nd August 2013
Weather : very hot & sunny

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Matajur

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Hunters house near San nicolo

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Young goat keepers

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Castelmonte first view

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Inside Sanctuario madonna di monte

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Virgin with kid

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Grapes & vineyards in Albana

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Slovenian religious statue

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Slovenian vineyard – Goriska Brda region

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Slovenian – Goriska Brda tasty peaches

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Dobrovo – Goriska Brda

Day 72 : Rifugio Pelizzo – Varth 21st August 2013

Leaving the comfort of rifugio Pelizzo 7:50am

Going down trail #736 towards Cepletischis

9:05am 910m Opened hut, stone walls and roof

9:45am 558m Cepletischis.Mobile alimentari/grocery truck only on wednesday (probably only morning)

10am 500m Torrente Rieca low point on trail #745 towards Topolo

10:30am 810m.Bivacco Zanuso marked 2h50.Rifugio Solarie marked 3h35

10:50am 590m Topolo.Meet and talked to few locals from France & Belgium.Told me the Dalai Lama came to Povala (village near Cepletischis at slovenian border) last year.Saw a house with Tibetan prayer flags.Via alpina passing right next to this holy buddhist place.Few lamas are staying there.Surely worth stopping by and definitely a possible accommodation…

11:25am 650m Opened hut called Gostilna Seuje.Roof and stone walls

12am 760m Lase hamlet out of the woods.Little bit of fresh air and view here

12:45am 1145m after steep trail up.Via alpina connects with road.View on Matajur,Topolo and flat land.

1pm 1100m Bivacco Zanuso.Lots of people and cars (road just nearby),seems open,nice view.

Sentiero della Pace is taking the nearby ridge on the border linr between Slovenia and Italy

1:25pm 956m Rifugio Casoni Solarie.

2:15pm leaving rifugio Casoni Solari after lunch break.Local via alpina sign tells Castelmonte 5h15.Via alpina roadbook says 5h30.Castelmonte might be reachable today…

2:30pm 800m Clabuzzaro.According to GPS device there is a restaurant in Clabuzzaro

Just saw time marker saying Castelmonte 6h50…not helping boosting moral but probably incorrect.Monte Cum marked 1h45 on trail #747

3pm San Volfango WW1 cemetary.Natisone valley great war action where 500 italians died here during the conflict.

3:50pm 890m In the forest.Opened rustic hunter shack with fireplace.

4pm 912m Monte Cum high point in the forest with no visibility.Not mentionned in via alpina roadbook.

4:25pm 640m Passing nearby San Giovanni

4:40pm 605m Gridovizza hamlet.Via alpina still on the Alpe Adria trail.

5pm 570m Passing nearby Clunaz

5:10pm 610m Big hut nearby via alpina,big outside roof,tables and benches..oh yeah it is open… Naked girls and wild boars posters, pictures of men smilling by the side of dead wild animals…yep that is right…local hunters shack without the hunters 🙂

Too tempting to carry on…cooking gear,fireplace,little food and drinks on the house (Squadra Cacciatori Stregna)…wouhouuuu

5:30pm Found the gas tank…hot coffee scheduled for tomorrow morning

Distance : 33,6km
Walking : 7h50
Resting : 2h
Weather : sunny
Altitude : 610m
Date : Wednesday 21st August 2013

Spent most day again in forest with again almost no visibility…

Could have been harder on a rainy day,lots of ups and downs.Been mostly in the forest since almost a week now…no more real mountain (except off via alpina half day to Monte Kanin on day 68) on the via alpina that almost follows the border line with Slovenia since a long time (without crossing it)

Great view from nearby hunter shack hill on Slovenian mountains

7pm Funny, deer approached about 100m away from the hunters shack…

7:30pm Found some corn and a hunting map…Hunters here uses corn has a bait..the map in the shack shows the corn dropping/killing spots.

Took some corn and throw it 50m away from the shack and within 30mins…2 Capriolos came in for the picture 🙂

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View of rifugio Pelizzo and the flat land

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Panorama Matajur and rifugio Pelizzo

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Matajur view on the way to bivacco Zanuso

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Via alpina forest trail

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San Volfango WW1 & WW2 memorial

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Varth hunters house

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Capriolo’s coming for dinner

Day 71 : Staro Selo – Rifugio Pelizzo 20th August 2013

6:30am packing stuff to find a roof.Rain and strong wind blowed during the night.Roughest night so far and the worst is that it looks like the weather gonna stay like this all day…

7am Svino area, stopped by the 1st founded roof. Started falling asleep while seated…lied down and took a morning nap

8:45am moving up to Monte Matajur from Svino in the woods until 1200m

12:10am 1500m flat land view and whaaaaat? Reallllyyyy!!! Sea view…wouhouuuu…

12:30am 1641m Monte Matajur Chapel.Open there and glad it is because the strong wind and rain make it hard to stay outside.

1:30pm moving down to rifugio Dom Matajur.Great view from there.

Someone there it is open and warm inside.Christina cutted some cheese and salami then cooked me a pasta shoot…wouhou..electricity here and lots of food available.

Went for a siesta and slept few hours.
Around 5:40pm been told that had to go to rifugio Pelizzo.Christina was going down and locking the rifugio Dom Matajur…late surprise..been told that the Dom Matajur rifugio opened week ends and only if booked ahead…

Walked down rifugio Pelizzo at got there before 7pm 1300m

Great sea view and the flat land.Spotted Muggia bay with the rifugio binoculars… Seaweed smell? Not yet

No one there tonight..only me for this 40 beds capacity refuge.12euros for the bed.Expensive Hot shower at 5euros.
The pasta and food are all made on site. 6euros for a huge breakfast

Distance : 14km
Walking : 4h25
Weather : cloudy and light rain most day, cold and very windy at Monte Matajur
Date : Tuesday 20th August 2013

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On the way up Matajur from Slovenia…Dense forest from 400m up to 1200m

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1200m on the way to Matajur

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Chapel at Monte Matajur

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Panorama at rifugio Dom Matajur

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Fresh pasta made at rifugio Pelizzo

Day 70 : Montemaggiore – Staro Selo 19th August 2013

6:35am moving in the forest on trail #744, saw deer already (locally called Capriolo). Went up about 700m before going down.

7:40am 420m crossing rio Bianco

8am 400m road and border Slovenia-Italy

8:30am 550m Prossenicco.There is a restaurant that seems to offer accomodation too here (not mentionned in via alpina roadbook from june 2013)

9:50am reached 760m,going down again

10:35am 720m Montefosca.Finally got off after walking 14,5km in the least interesting part of the via alpina since Monaco.Dense and ugly forest,going up & down (sometimes steeply) a lot,no visibility during 4 long hours…hardcore zone alongside Slovenia-Italy border..there is 2 agriturismo bar/restaurant in Montefosca.

Stupizza marked 45mins on trail #735.View on Matajur from here

11:35am 220m crossing Fiume Natisone.

12am Only water in Stupizza…no food.Local woman told me to follow road for a km to find restaurant in Loch.Matajur marked 4h15 on trail #735

1pm Road side Pizzeria serving food only in the evening.Find a drive in Valentino’s truck to Slovenian border where there is a grocery store open (Mercator) non stop from 9am to 8pm.Super cheap and there is a restaurant just next to it.Mercator is about 4km from Stupizza but worth hitchiking to get supplies…

2pm Super meal was served here at Slovenian border.Tried Pelinkovec digestive…

Got local map and information, will go up 2km on the road to reach Robic town and take on Matajur from Svino

5:30pm leaving Slovenia-Italia border, following road to Robic (Natisone river swimming spot).Natisone is warm water,nice to swim in

7:45pm Staro Selo cimetary.Will pitch behind and outside the cimetary

Distance : 28,3km (hitchiked about 7-8km)
Walking : 6h45
Altitude : 245m
Weather : hot & sunny
Date : Monday 19th August 2013

Find out later that a possible great variante through Slovenia is possible from Matajur to Punta di Montemaggiore

From Matajur go down Livek/Svino/Kobarid walk flat to Staro Selo then go up to the ridge to Punta di montemaggiore

Also been told that the way up or down to Matajur is easier on the Slovenian side…

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Prossenico church

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Trail #744 – Montemaggiore – Montefosca area – Hardcore trail

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Houses in Montefosca

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Montefosca

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Stupizza – Matajur area via alpina map

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Via alpina variante from Matajur to Punta di Montemaggiore on ridge trail (avoiding long walk in forest with no view from Montefosca to Montemaggiore)

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Other part of the possible great ridge trail variante in Slovenia from Matajur to Punta di Montemaggiore